{"id":567,"date":"2021-07-16T17:55:00","date_gmt":"2021-07-16T08:55:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alphabendi.com\/?p=567"},"modified":"2021-07-16T09:51:50","modified_gmt":"2021-07-16T00:51:50","slug":"read-em%ef%bc%9a%e8%87%aa%e5%88%86%e3%81%a7%e3%81%95%e3%81%b0%e3%81%84%e3%81%a6%e3%80%8c%e9%ad%9a%e9%a3%9f%e3%81%88%e3%80%81%e3%82%b3%e3%83%8e%e3%83%a4%e3%83%ad%e3%83%bc%e3%80%8d","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.alphabendi.com\/?p=567","title":{"rendered":"Read ‘em\uff1a\u81ea\u5206\u3067\u3055\u3070\u3044\u3066\u300c\u9b5a\u98df\u3048\u3001\u30b3\u30ce\u30e4\u30ed\u30fc!!\u300d"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

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\u82f1\u8a9e\uff1a\u201c\u201cEat More Fish!\u201d: Japan\u2019s Rock-and-Roll Fishmonger Crusades for Traditional Mealtime Staple\u201d<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Japan has one of the highest life expectancy rates in the world, and one reason for this is its seafood-rich diet. Seafood has been a major source of protein for the Japanese people for centuries. However, meat has since taken over as a culinary favorite. According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries, per capita fish consumption peaked at 40.2 kilograms in 2001, but was still far ahead of meat at 27.8 kilograms. Japanese preferences, particularly among young people, have since verged away from fish and other seafood, and in 2011, seafood consumption dropped below that of meat for the first time. By 2019, annual per capita seafood consumption had fallen to 23.8 kilograms, while meat increased to 33.5 kilograms. In addition to sluggish demand, catches of staple fish varieties like saury, salmon, and squid continue to decline, constituting a double whammy for the seafood industry. Once a major fishery nation, Japan is seeing a major transformation of its culinary culture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One fishmonger in Chiba Prefecture is trying to reverse the tide with the passionate cry of \u201ceat more fish!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Songs of Fish and the Sea
Morita Tsurizao, the third-generation proprietor of Urayasu fish shop Izugin, is on a rock-and-roll mission. Going by his stage name\u2014Tsurizao literally means \u201cfishing rod\u201d\u2014he leads the musical group Gyok\u014d (Fishing Port) that offers a new kind of music Morita calls \u201cfish rock.\u201d In 2004, the band made their debut on major label Universal Music with the song \u201cMaguro\u201d (Tuna).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Morita, who fellow members and fans call \u201cCaptain,\u201d is the group\u2019s vocalist and song writer. He pens tunes singing the praises of fish, the ocean, and fishermen. The group\u2019s live performances are embellished with dramatic tuna-carving shows and other attractions to thrill fans and emphasize the band\u2019s message: \u201cEat fish!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When not on stage, Morita is selling fresh fish and other seafood at his store. He used to specialize in tuna and whale meat at the Urayasu Fish Market, but after the market closed, he opened shop in the Horie district of the city. He says selling fish is his true livelihood and passion and even confesses to turning down an invitation for his group to perform in New York, stating that \u201cI just couldn\u2019t keep the shop closed that long.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reviving a Fishing Town
Not far from Izugin on the opposite side of the Sakai River is the neighborhood of Nekozane. The area\u2019s reputation as a fishing town stretches back hundreds of years. Morita says that when he was a child, the riverbank was lined with fish shops, but that today the incursion of supermarkets and other changes have caused their numbers to dwindle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI was a second-grader when Tokyo Disneyland opened in Urayasu, altering the landscape completely,\u201d Morita recalls \u201cConvenience stores popped up here and there, and I remember being amazed that you could buy rice balls just about anywhere.\u201d He notes that the popularity of fast food and items like instant cup noodles have drastically changed the Japanese diet, although he insists that this is a temporary state of affairs. \u201cThe Japanese preference for fish is something rooted in our very being. After all, this used to be a fishing town and people here used to eat a lot of fish.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the old days, fish shops were centers of community activity, serving as places for locals to share news or engage in casual chit-chat as they looked over the day\u2019s catch. Morita is determined to revive that friendly atmosphere by making it a point to talk with his customers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe special you recommended the other day was delicious,\u201d a customer tells him. \u201cIf you liked it,\u201d responds Morita, his voice trained for singing clear and pleasant, \u201cI suggest you try the mat\u014ddai [John dory] today. It can be eaten as sashimi and makes a great carpaccio. Leave the skin on the remaining half and saut\u00e9 it with a meuni\u00e8re sauce. Delicious!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Morita sources the wide assortment of fish and seafood he offers at Izugin through relatives and friends working in the Toyosu wholesale market in Tokyo. The store\u2019s offerings are quite different from those of the average fish shop. \u201cKnowing you\u2019re eating a rare delicacy makes it all the more delicious,\u201d Morita declares. Not only does Izugin offer a diverse variety of fish, but it also sells unusual items like juicy \u201ccheek\u201d meat, tail meat, skin, and even brains of tuna. And if you don\u2019t know how to prepare such tasty morsels, Morita will teach you everything from arrangement to seasoning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cTuna brain is fatty and particularly tasty,\u201d Morita says. \u201cCheek meat is also savory. And the tail meat is rich in collagen. Even the skin can be tasty if you prepare it well.\u201d He recommends scalding pieces of skin in boiling water flavored with sake and ginger, scraping off the scales, letting the pieces cool, and then slicing them into fine strips. \u201cDribble on some ponzu, top with daikon radish grated with a little bit of chili pepper, drop on a few chopped chives, then add a dash of Tabasco to give it an extra zing.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Copyright 2020 Nippon Communications Foundation
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Copyright 2020 Nippon Communications Foundation
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