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In this week\u2019s Armchair Traveler, we travel to Kutn\u00e1 Hora, a small city in the Czech Republic famous for its history of silver mining, its gorgeous buildings and a church filled with human bones. These attractions are rightly popular with tourists, who love to hear about the many superstitions linked to them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Start at the Sedlec Ossuary. Before it began to fill with bones of people who died from plague and war, it was an abbey. In 1278, an abbot from the abbey brought back earth from Golgotha, the place in Jerusalem where Jesus was crucified. He sprinkled the soil onto the abbey\u2019s cemetery, creating a \u201choly field\u201d in Central Europe. People believed the soil could bring them closer to heaven and for centuries, they hoped to be buried here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Today, people leave coins among the bone displays, and tour guides will say that the cemetery is surrounded by trickster ghosts who play pranks on visitors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There is a religious ritual \u2014 a superstition, non-Christians would call it \u2014 linked to the bones, called \u201cmemento mori,\u201d or \u201cremember you must die.\u201d Visitors are encouraged when looking at the bones to realize that death comes for everyone, reflect on their life, and think about what they will say to God when they meet him in the afterlife.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Czechs in the Middle Ages believed that a woman, the \u201cplague maiden,\u201d walked from village to village spreading the disease. If you could hear her coming, you would die.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Kutn\u00e1 Hora was a wealthy city in the 1300s, mainly because of silver mining. In later centuries, new veins of silver became harder to find and the tunnels were abandoned. But people still remember the superstitions of the silver mines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The locals believed that small creatures called permon\u00edki would show miners where good veins were \u2014 but only if you were noble of heart. If you were wicked, they would lead you in the abyss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The permon\u00edki also appeared aboveground, demanding that people leave an empty seat at weddings. In return, the creatures gave people fuel for their lamps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
These days, you can find permon\u00edki at the Italian Court \u2014 once the royal mint of the city. These \u201chidden goblins\u201d are a tourist gimmick, not real permon\u00edki, but centuries ago belief in this superstition helped teach children how to treat other people well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Kutn\u00e1 Hora was also a center of alchemy. Alchemists believed they could turn lead into gold, and so they worked like scientists trying to unlock the secrets of the material world. Looking back, we can see that the entire field of alchemy was full of superstitions. For instance, alchemists believed that \u201ca man loses his (alchemical) knowledge when he loses his purity of heart,\u201d according to a 2013 Spanish study of the Czech history of alchemy. They also believed that metals were \u201cmaturing\u201d deep inside the Earth, turning from \u201cbase\u201d metals into \u201cnoble\u201d metals. \u201cThe task of the alchemist is to perform the same process, but in shorter times than those of nature itself.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Visiting a city is more than just seeing the attractions. It\u2019s also a way to see how people lived and what they believed hundreds of years ago.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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